There’s something iconic about cities between mountains and sea. You know the big ones because it’s a winning combination. Cape Town, Vancouver, Rio de Janeiro. Squeezed from both sides by two life sources means hilltop neighbourhoods, advantageous views, an energy with a pulse.
Yet there’s another candidate that’s far more modest, its low peaks staying under the radar. Busan is Seoul’s little sister, receiving three times less tourists per year than the Korean capital. But behind this modesty and a laid-back reputation, there’s a hidden depth that you won’t get to the bottom of.
It’s a port city and port cities inevitably come with gulls and strong odours. Walk to the water and you’ll be acquainted with the hum of illuminated aquariums outside restaurants, their crammed contents open mouthed at their fate and the diners in view. They are the overspill from Jagalchi Market, the largest seafood market in the country and Busan’s best sight. Follow the other hungry souls and brace yourself for the overwhelm.
Rows and rows of plastic tanks and buckets overflow onto the floor as tentacles coil out of them and pincers grasp the air. There are squirts that come from shells and slimy creatures from an alien world. Customers choose their lunch to be hacked and barbecued on the floor upstairs, or simply eaten raw. Your eyes bulge. The eyes in the tank bulge. Those of the grannies and famous female vendors crease in amusement at the faces you pull, their coiffed hair immaculate. Even if you’re lucky enough to have travelled to other markets in Asia, this one tops them all.
For a calmer ocean experience, Haeundae beach has glamour and high rises and soft yellow sand that makes you question which country you’re in. Families hold their shoes and walk barefoot along the shore. People play ballgames and relax under umbrellas. And it’s the mouth of the city’s most populous district when you’re ready to dive back in.
It is this contrast between the whirr of urban life and finding the space to breath that makes Busan so easy to love. Inside the world’s largest department store, there’s a spa that has 13 different relaxation rooms with saunas and scents and rice drinks. I sat in a communal bath with 50 naked Korean ladies, towels wrapped round their heads in jjimjilbang style (read; Mickey Mouse) and tuts thrown my way. I felt more of a curiosity than the experience itself. I suspect it’s not often that a redhead jumps in with them.
More tuts can be collected at Gamcheon Culture village, a myriad of alleys and colour which brings in lots of visitors, much to the disdain of its residents. This former slum received a major makeover in 2009 with plenty of murals, artwork and tacky photo opportunities. It’s easy enough to ditch the crowds by following your nose through the maze of stairways until you find the everyday. Gutted fish hanging on lines to dry. Huge earthenware jars preserving and fermenting food outside box houses. The clatter of pans. Glimpses of the sea.
The way you experience a place often depends on how well it treats you. Busan spoilt me, unveiling her sights piece by piece. The weather was gorgeous, my hotel exactly what I wanted. I never had a bad meal and greedily licked the grease of fried chicken off my fingers and hands. I made a friend for a day, and we spoke about love on top of the Busan Tower in that philosophical way that only happens when you meet strangers abroad.
In between Busan’s heights, you can always feel its connection to the water. I guarantee you’ll have a rollicking time. There’s nowhere else quite like it.
Stamps of approval
Korea is definitely not the cheapest destination in Asia, but it is probably more reasonable than you expect. You can find a modest double room with breakfast in Busan for about 40-60 USD per night, and a hostel dorm bed for 15. Street food comes in hot, spicy and high value.
I wrote about my obsession with KBBQ and my favourite in Busan was Anga Sutbol-Gui. It’s all over Trip Advisor, tourist friendly and in walking distance of Haeundae Beach.
It’s a bit overwhelming to decide which area to stay in. Even though it’s a shopping district, I found Seo-myeon vibrant, lively and very well connected. There are some helpful blogs to guide your choice here and here.
Given how accessible Busan’s temples are, expect them to be overcrowded unless you wake up early. Beomeo-sa stands majestic against its mountain backdrop and the gongs at Haedong Yonggungsa summon waves.
I went to Busan back in 2013 - not a lot of English anywhere! It made it feel quite exotic, but there were a couple of times when I navigated back to the hotel by lots of hand gestures and sheer luck. What was it like when you were there. A favorite memory was climbing Jangsan Mountain and laughing at all the people doing it in flip flops!
Sounds like such a memorable trip! Still not a lot of English in 2023 but I think getting lost and trying to navigate between Korean maps and Google maps is part of its charm ! I absolutely loved it, definitely a city that stays with you.